Mark's Blog

Things I would consider when buying a bicycle:

1. Cost. This is difficult because it depends not only on what you feel you can afford but also what the going price is for the quality you need/want. In the U.S., I would recommend you not look at less than $800 and be prepared for $1100 - $1300. You are doing athletic riding and riding many kilometers and you should buy a bicycle based on the idea that this will continue or increase.

2. Components. I believe high quality components affect the riding experience more than riding efficency. However, that doesn't mean that you should shortchange this area. The better the riding feels, the faster you will go and the more enjoyable/satisfying it will be. In the U.S., Shimano components dominate the market. For road bicycles, Shimano DuraAce is the top of the line, seen mainly on racing bikes fromm $1300 on up. I don't think they make a DuraAce triple crank.
The next step down is Shimano Ultegra which are about half the price of the top of the line (that's what's on my new bike.) Then comes Shimano 105 which is the lower end of quality components in their line. In France, you are probably going to see more Euopean components. I guess my point is to look to something just one (or possibly two) steps below the top of the line components.
I would think you would definately want a triple crank on the front even if racers look down on you for having it.

3. Frame. You will have to choose between Cromoly steel and aluminum. Aluminum frames are popular in the U.S. (my Trek and my new Easyracer frames are both aluminum) but I don't know if they are as popular in Europe. Aluminum usually gives you a lighter bike in the same price range and tend to be more rigid, leading to a harsher but more efficient ride.

4. Style of bicycle. I would assume you want a road bike. You probably would want to avoid bikes that label themselves commuter bikes, comfort bikes, etc. Since you are riding athletically, you are after speed and efficiency.
Therefore, you also will want to avoid front and especially rear shocks on the bike (it seems to be very popular in the U.S. right now to put shocks on all kinds of bikes irregardless of the appropriateness for the kind of use to which the bike will be put.) Rear shocks especially absorb some of your effort in hard riding, particularily on hills.

5. You will want to avoid wheels that are too light. You will always be consider a heavy rider for bicycling as long as you are over 160 lbs. You will also want high reliability as long as your primary riding is to or from work and during your lunch. You can accept extra weight in the wheels and tires to get it.

6. Pedals. While high end bikes are sold with no pedals or cheap pedals with the assumption you will want to pick the particular pedals you desire, bikes in your price range may come with pedal suitable for your use. If so, picking a bike with pedals suitable might save $40 - $70. Clipless pedals seem worth the price and effort to me (may mean buying new shoes.)

7. You may want to check if the frame is drilled for fenders and/or rear rack. The bike will be more versatile if it can accept these.

8. I would lower my rating of a bike that had the shifters on the down tube. Bar end shifters, grip shifters, or shifters on the brake levers is what I would look for.

9. Don't neglect getting cycling clothes, especially shoes. Again, comfort generally increases speed.

One the one hand, that's more than I hoped to have to spend. Must examine the budget and plan in advance.

On the other hand, Rob spent roughly that amount. He rides for sport, but also rides into work on the train, taking his bike from the home to the train station and from the train station to work. Riding his bike was much more fun than riding mine, and I'm pretty sure I went a lot faster.

1) Yes you probably need to spend $1000 to get into the decent-enough-to-tell-the-difference range.

2) Triple crank, yes. Really good components? should come with a bike like that.

3) You won't get Titanium at that price so it's all Al here.

4) Mine is not a "commuter" in the sense of Ann Arbor commuter. It's a road bike with straight handlebars and a more upright stem. New handlebars and it would be a road bike.
Don't get suspension ever until you go to a MT bike and then only front suspension. When you start doing serious off-road downhilling then you can get rear-suspension. Suspension only adds weight, though it helps me riding over a few tree roots now and again. I have to laugh at all these people on the trail with dual suspension, Camelbaks (for a six mile ride, c'mon!) and the rest of the get-up. Consumerism has gotten the better of them and made their ride more of a weighty hassle.

5) Sure.

6) If you get a nice bike, definitely get some nice shoes.

7) Aren't most frames set up for racks. You should have a "commuter" to make this irrelevant on your nice bike. It was a major hassle to take my rack on my bike to go out for a ride.

8) Don't know anything about road shifters. I like Shimano rapid-fires a little better than grip-shift. I'd go for whatever gives the ability to downshift while braking (shifters on the brake levers?).

9) Try on the shoes first. I bought a pair of Sidis via the web. They are size 46 which I never had problems with before, but these have less room in the toebox.